Drawing Clothes Tips by joua.k
literally most things that people write off as just ‘textures’ to use in graphics are stolen & unsourced material created by artists or photographers NOT meant to be used as elements in projects without royalty payments. you can say ‘it’s just random tumblr posts they don’t care’ but you wouldn’t want someone to take your work and edit into their work so they can be praised for their beautiful style and creativity even if they just post it on social media w/o profit, would you?? so maybe if you browse pinterest or google images for pictures without finding the original source, you’re using images that you’re not allowed to use without realizing it.
you see it on here a lot especially in (i won’t link anything but i’m sure you know what i mean) those album track ‘aesthetics’ posts, au ‘aesthetic’ posts (you see these less in kpop, but where people use non-royalty free images to kinda craft a visual au), and even just rather typical graphics that have a lot of ‘texture’ elements. and texture packs too!! that’s often where the problem starts; people just collect images (often literal art), compile them in a folder w/o sources, then insist no one can repost those images w/o crediting the person who compiled them. what???
SO may i suggest some of my fave places you can get FREE, ROYALTY-FREE elements that are totally legal to use
creativemarket has 6 free high-quality resources (textures, brushes, fonts, etc), different every week! wow awesome i check it every week
search ‘freebie’ on behance. awesome stuff!!! lots of v nice templates textures and fonts
mockup zone freebies
unsplash: tons of very nice free photographs, not shitty stock photos
pexels: same idea. + they have an adobe plugin so you can get photos without closing your editor damn nice
pixelsquid is a super cool free program (again w a ps plugin that i love) with lottts of super cool hq 3d elements!
as to not make this too long: spoongraphics, lostandtaken (textures galore), pixeden, freebiesbug.
:) hope you like it!
my current brushes i used a lot here: painting brush(speckles), the ones i called sim
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/12795238/sim2014_23_08.abr
enlarged tutorial images:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/12795238/wald%20tut%20large%20images.jpg
As promised a step by step guide, which hopefully will help you understand how I work with watercolors. If you have more questions I’m glad answer them.
Materials: Pencil (2H), Daler Rowney Fine Grain - Heavy weight paper (A5, 200g/m2), Windsor & Newton watercolors, Ink and drawing pen, colored pencils, white paper, tissue
Keep reading
Lately many people have been asking me how to create a space nebula effect with markers. The process is relatively simple, but it’s not easy to explain simply with words alone. So in this walkthrough I’m going to show step by step how it’s done.
First things first. This is the list of supplies I used. -Strathmore Mixed Media 5.5 x 8.5 sketchbook-Pink and White Colored Pencil-White Gel Pen-13 Copic Marlers (12 colors and a colorless blender, which I’ll explain how to use later.) I should point out now that you aren’t required to use the exact brands I used to create the drawing. I use these materials because they’re what I’m most accustomed to.The techniques I demonstrate can be done with whatever markers and paper you’re comfortable using. What matters is that you understand the technique because when you do you can apply it to anything.
I begin by making some abstract cloud-like shapes with E50 (Eggshell), which is a very faint yellow. There’s no pencil sketch here because space nebula (as well as atmospheres and natural landscapes) can be easily created by layering abstract shapes on top of each other.
Using Y21 (Buttercup Yellow) and G20 (Wax White) I basically repeat the first step. Still working very light. I realized after the fact that Buttercup Yellow was a bit too intense for this drawing so I stopped using it there. This is why it’s important to have a sheet of scratch paper nearby to test out colors before you apply them. Because once they’re down, they’re DOWN.
Next I use R20 (Blush) to start defining the shapes of the gases in the nebula. Then I go back to Eggshell. It’s probably hard to see what I did here, but I used the brush tip end (on its side) to swipe inward, from all sides, towards the center of the nebula. The reason being is that the brush tip is more saturated than the chisel tip. This helps intensify the lighter shade of yellow that’s already on the paper. If also makes crossfading colors easier because the sideways swipe motion creates a soft gradient that tapers towards the edge. I’ll use this technique multiple times throughout the drawing..
Now with B000 (Pale Porcelain Blue) I layer over the gases in the center while working my way outwards. Again I’m pulling my strokes inward because I know the surrounding space will be deep blue and I want the transition to be a smooth one.
With E04 (Lipstick Natural) I’m finally beginning to put in some of the darker colors. At this point the drawing sill looks like a random mess. Sometimes you’ll get the urge to rush and make the drawing look like something, but you have to be patient and take your time.
Using B32 (Pale Blue) and R20 again, I’m going around the nebula detailing and adding layers of color. I’m also leaving some white spaces which will later become stars. My Pale Blue is actually beginning to dry out, but here in able to make that work to my advantage because it streaks from the chisel end create a dry brush effect which helps add to the glow. The nebula portion of the drawing is beginning to take shape.
Working my way around the perimeter with Pale Blue. From here you can see the importance of working light to dark. Build your colors gradually and avoid the urge to go too dark too early. You want to have room for error and you don’t want create more work for yourself.
With B04 (Tahitian Blue) I fill the surrounding space completely. I’m not too concerned with trying to get an even layer because I know that I’m going to add darker shades of blue next.
Here I used B00 (Frost Blue) to start cleaning up some of the edges around the nebula. I also used BG15 (Aqua) to add some pockets of color in the surrounding space.
Adding darker layers to surrounding space with B14 (Light Blue), which surprisingly a pretty dark shade of blue. Then I used B97 (Night Blue) to add the last layer, which is the darkest layer in this drawing.
Now it’s time for the final details. 0 is the Colorless Blender. But it’s not necessarily used to blend. Instead it almost acts like an eraser because the ink pushes colors away when you put it down. Because of this I generally don’t use it. But it works great for things like water, landscapes and atmospheres. Or in this case, space in which I used it to pull out highlights in and around the nebula. The colorless blender is odd, but it occasionally has its uses.
This is the final step and my personal favorite. Highlights and small details. I used the pink and white pencils to color around the edges of the brightest stars to make them look as if they’re glowing. Then I used the a white gel pen to color inside those stars to make them shine and pop off the page.
And here’s the finished drawing. This was hastily put together, but hope y'all found this to be informative and easy to follow. I’ll try to do more marker walkthroughs on different subjects in the future. Until then thanks for all your support and encouragement!
this pack contains thirty-two 300x300 textures made for icons, including gradients and word textures. please like/reblog if you download.
i just found this website that can randomly generate a continent for you!! this is great for fantasy writers
plus, you can look at it in 3d!
theres a lot of viewing options and other things! theres an option on-site to take a screenshot, so you don’t have to have a program for that!
you can view it here!
i hope this is readable omg
yea take this with a grain of salt because granted half the time i have no idea what im doing and yea
step by step explanation of this
NSFW because there will probably be nude refs | this is a side blog to sort all of the art stuff I need | none of it is mine
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